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About Us. The basic rules for transmission building apply to all units. Some sort of thrust washer or Torrington bearing is used between any two components that ride together in the assembly and have the potential to turn at different speeds. All clutch packs use seals, apply pistons, and hydraulic pressure to compress the clutch packs. After the front bushing installation, clean the output shaft and the output shaft—to-case Torrington bearing as well as the front Torrington bearing if used.
Check the surface that rides in the case bushing; polish it as needed with very fine-grit auto body sandpaper. The front bearing on this transmission is also a Torrington bearing. A metal thrust washer may be used at this location instead. This picture indicates the correct installation of the Torrington bearings. The rear Torrington bearing is installed as shown.
The front Torrington bearing is installed as shown. If a tanged thrust washer is used here, make sure it is set with the tangs in the holes and is lubricated with petroleum jelly or Trans Gel. It should turn freely without binding. Drive the old bushing from the low planetary as shown. Locate a suitable driver to install the low-planetary bushing. Install the new bushing from above.
It must turn freely without any tight spots. Check the endplay on each pinion as shown. Also spin each pinion and wobble them back and forth. If endplay is beyond. Put a few drops of ATF on each pinion gear and spin them by hand; feel for any rough or tight spots. Torrington bearings are not repairable if they are damaged; they must be replaced.
Even so, they seldom give any trouble. Once they are well lubricated, turn them by hand and feel for any roughness or tight spots. Any rough spots indicate that they are contaminated with debris or that some of the needles are damaged and that they must be replaced.
Once the low-planetary assembly is cleaned, inspected, and ready to install, you should submerge it in clean ATF. Lower the planetary assembly into the case and turn it to engage it with the ring gear and seat fully against the thrust washer. Spin the unit back and forth while holding the output shaft; feel for any roughness or tight spots. It should turn freely in both directions. Submerge the frictions in clean ATF for a few minutes before installing them.
A notch references the location of the steel in the case, even though they only install one way. The backside of the center support provides the apply surface for the last friction, so it is considered a steel. Note the location of the notch on the steels in the bottom of the case, and that the last friction is very close to the top of the low planetary, although it is still fully engaged.
Install the center support and retaining spring next. Note the location of the retaining spring in the case. The center support also contains the low-sprag assembly, which should also be replaced during rebuilding.
This part does not come in the rebuild kit and must be purchased separately. Install the center support retaining spring as shown.
Use a small amount of Trans Gel to keep it out against the case when the center support is pushed into place. I nstall the center support and push it fully into place as shown. Notice how the retaining spring also loads the center support against the case lugs, and how much clearance is present.
Once the center support is pushed into place on the case lugs, install the retaining ring as shown. On the left is the aftermarket bolt-in center support and stronger roller clutch assembly as used on the and later 4L60 and 4L60E transmissions. This is a highly recommended upgrade for any TH transmission; it increases the strength of the unit considerably in that area. The stock TH center support is shown stacked on top of an aftermarket bolt-in center support.
Note how much longer the rollers are on the aftermarket part. Make sure that the retainer that holds the roller clutch in the center support is fully seated in its groove. Install the new center support and retaining ring in the same manner that you would install a stock center support. Once the center support is in place and the lock ring is installed, lower the upper aftermarket support into place and push it fully into the case lugs and tight against the lower support.
Install all eight hardened screws. Be sure to use some red Loctite on them. Install the inner race for the low-roller clutch. Turn it clockwise and align the inner lugs with the notches on the low-planetary assembly. It pushes into place easily once lined up correctly. Locate the new thrust washer for the sun shell. The stock thrust washer was probably plastic; the replacement should be metal.
Install the sun shell thrust washer onto the inner roller clutch race. Use a sharp punch to drive out the upper bushing inside the sun gear. Flip the sun shell over and drive out the lower bushing. Rest the gear on a block of wood or shop towel to help you avoid damaging it. Locate and drive in the upper bushing with a suitable driver. Make sure to use some red Loctite on the bushing. Install the lower bushing next. Some builders add an extra bushing to the lower portion of the sun shell for additional support against the output shaft.
If you choose to do this, make sure to check the oil lubrication holes; drill them if necessary. Lubricate the sun shell with clean ATF. Get plenty of lubricant on the inner bushings and on the lower area that comes in contact with the thrust washer. Install the sun shell and gear into the case.
Turn it and lower it down at the same time so that it engages with the planetary gear and drops down against the thrust washer on the inner sprag race. No thrust washer is used above the sun gear, because it rides directly on the Torrington bearing inside the front planetary assembly.
Submerge the front planetary assembly in fresh ATF. Inspect the pinions for damage and endplay, as you did with the low-planetary assembly. Install the planetary assembly onto the sun gear. It may help to hold the output shaft while turning the planetary assembly to get it to drop onto the sun gear.
Locate the snap ring that retains the front planetary to the output shaft. Set it on the end of the output shaft. Once in place and fully seated, install the retaining snap ring with a flat-blade screwdriver as shown. It helps to push one side down and then walk it around the end of the shaft while pushing it down into the retaining groove. Clean the front planetary Torrington bearing with clean ATF. Turn it and feel for rough spots, which are tight when it turns.
This indicates that it has debris inside or is damaged. Damaged or dirty Torrington bearings are not serviceable and must be replaced. Install the Torrington bearing on the front planetary. Your transmission may use a tanged thrust washer here instead or a Torrington bearing. Note that there are two types of carriers. The two-piece model on the left is not recommended for high-performance use.
Use a sharp punch to remove the bushing inside the front planetary carrier. Apply a small amount of red Loctite to the new bushing and drive it into place. Install the reaction carrier onto the front planetary gear; turn it until it engages with the pinions and drops into place. Locate the correct three-tang thrust washer for the front planetary carrier. Put some Trans Gel on the backside of the thrust washer and install it on the carrier. The grease helps it stay in place when you install the forward clutch assembly.
Rebuilding the forward clutch is a relatively easy process. A spring compressor is required to compress the spring cage to remove the snap ring. Because the input shaft is attached to the forward drum, it should be left in place during the rebuilding process.
This requires that the spring compressor must have the ability to accommodate the input shaft and still compress the spring cage. You are now ready to rebuild and install the forward clutch assembly. The input shaft is attached to the drum. Note the small shaft on the underside of the forward clutch. It engages with the bushing in the front of the output shaft. Replace the entire assembly if it is badly worn or damaged. Remove the large snap ring as well as the frictions and steels.
Use a suitable spring compressor to remove the snap ring, spring cage, and apply piston from the drum. Clean all of the components and lay them out on a clean pan or shop towels. Locate and install the new lip seals for the forward apply piston. The lips on both seals go down toward the drum. Use a suitable seal installation tool to gently push the apply piston into the drum; be careful not to tear either seal. The drum should turn freely once in place.
Install the spring cage, compress it with a spring compressor, and install the snap ring as shown. The ends of the snap ring should be located between two of the raised areas on the retainer.
Install the forward clutch pack steels and frictions. Note that you start out with a waved apply steel. Install the snap ring and push it out tightly into the groove. Soak the frictions in ATF for at least 15 minutes prior to installation. Check for clutch pack clearance. Because the forward clutch is applied for all forward gears, it only needs some clearance to work correctly. The frictions inside the drum should turn freely once the snap ring is in place. Factory clearance is.
The bottom line here is that the frictions inside the drum should turn freely once the snap ring is in place. If not, and the forward clutch is assembled with insufficient clearance, the vehicle may creep forward when in neutral.
Install the forward drum in the case. Save this step for later if you are going to air pressure—test both clutch drums through the oil pump as shown in Step 6 on page Install the Torrington bearing after testing it for smoothness and submerging it in clean ATF.
Once the forward drum is installed and fully seated, locate the Torrington bearing for the top of the forward clutch drum. Clean, inspect, and submerge it in clean ATF prior to installation. Install the Torrington bearing on the forward clutch drum as shown. You are now ready for the direct drum. The direct drum is located behind the oil pump assembly. The intermediate roller clutch, or sprag assembly is attached to the front of the drum, and engaged with the intermediate friction plates in the forward part of the case.
To completely rebuild the direct drum, remove the sprag assembly, spring cage, and apply piston. Clean and inspect all components, and install new parts where applicable. Remove the large snap ring above the backing plate on the direct drum. Remove the backing plate, frictions, and steel plates. Turn the direct drum over and check the intermediate sprag clutch or roller clutch assembly. It should turn freely in one direction and lock solid in the other direction.
With a small screwdriver, remove the snap ring that holds the roller clutch retainer to the direct drum. With the snap ring out of the way, the retaining plate lifts right off, exposing the roller clutch assembly. Remove the roller clutch outer race. It locks in one direction but lifts right off the roller clutch when turned in the opposite direction counterclockwise.
Remove the roller clutch from the drum. Inspect the inner and outer race, rollers, and springs for damage. Install a new roller clutch assembly with any level of rebuild; the springs tend to crack, break, and lose their tension in high-mileage units. Using a suitable spring compressor, compress the spring cage for the direct clutch apply piston.
Using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring. It lifts off the drum easily once it is past the snap ring groove and the tension is removed. In most cases, the apply piston lifts out of the drum easily. Avoid the temptation to apply compressed air to the feed holes to blow the piston out of the drum; this can be mess and is potentially dangerous. Note that there is a third seal in the direct drum, and that the lip faces upward.
Install the new seal with the lip in the same direction. Clean all of the components of the direct drum. Inspect the inner and outer race surfaces closely. Most THs use four friction plates and four flat-steel plates. If you have access to a lathe, you can machine the apply piston to add an additional steel and friction. Inspect the bushing for wear. Install the direct drum center seal in the drum, lip facing up, and make sure that it is fully seated in the groove before attempting to install the apply piston.
Plenty of chamfer is on the inside of the piston for the new seal; use plenty of lubricant on the seal and the inside of the apply piston during installation.
Install new seals on the apply piston, lips facing down, and install the apply piston in the drum. Also use a feeler gauge or special seal installation tool a smooth piece of wire crimped in a piece of copper or soft steel tubing. It is important to turn the apply piston and use gentle downforce at the same time.
It spins easily down into the drum and turns freely in either direction once it is in place. Be careful not to cut, tear, or fold over the lip seals. Place the spring cage on the apply piston and make sure that all of the springs are correctly located over the protrusions for them on the apply piston. Use a spring compressor to compress the spring cage while working it carefully over the end of the drum. Install the snap ring to retain the spring cage, and make sure that the opening in the snap ring does not line up with the raised areas of the cage.
Remove the spring compressor. Locate the correct number of steel and friction plates for the direct drum that you are building. Install the backing plate over the last friction. Make sure that it is fully seated against the last friction. Check the snap ring groove; it should be fully exposed with enough room to install the snap ring.
Install the snap ring for the backing plate. Check the clutch pack clearance. It should be. Minimum clearance is. More than. Note that I am installing a wider bushing into the direct drum. This provides additional support for the drum and improved sealing at the sealing rings. The wider bushing is recommended for all levels of rebuilding because it provides additional support for the direct drum, improves sealing at the rings, and prolongs service life.
Drive the bushing out as shown with a long tapered punch. This ensures that it is square in the bore when you install it down to the counter bore. Install the new bushing to the depth as shown in the pictures. Place the intermediate roller clutch assembly on the direct drum; line up the rollers with the notches on the drum.
Carefully push the roller clutch assembly onto the drum. You may have to push each roller in slightly to get it started. Be careful not to dislodge any of the rollers during this process. Install the intermediate clutch outer race. Turn the outer race counterclockwise while applying downward pressure at the same time. It easily rolls into position and seats against the drum. Install the roller clutch retainer.
Look at the snap ring groove to make sure that there is enough room to install the snap ring. If not, the roller clutch or outer race is not fully seated. Install the snap ring over the retainer. The snap ring ends should be between the notches in the drum as shown. Be sure that the snap ring is fully seated. Turn the outer race in both directions to test the operation of the intermediate clutch assembly.
It should turn freely counterclockwise, then lock solid when turned clockwise. Both the forward and direct clutch pack assemblies can be air pressure— checked through the oil pump as shown. Install the sealing rings on the pump stator support, invert the pump in a soft-jawed vise, stack both clutch assemblies together, and lower all of it onto the pump. Apply compressed air through the oil supply passages and listen for the clutch apply as well as air leaks.
Carefully lower the direct clutch assembly into the case. Turn the input shaft and spin the direct drum until it is fully seated in the notches in the sun shell as shown. Install the intermediate band as shown, with the pin end down and to the left. Slip the band over the direct drum and align it with the notch in the case.
Be sure that the band is fully engaged in the notch as shown. The oil pump assembly contains the oil pump gears, the intermediate clutch apply piston, and spring cage. The hub end also has the sealing rings for the direct and forward clutch assemblies. Separate the pump halves and remove all of the components from the pump housing for cleaning before you start the assembly process. Unhook the ends on all four sealing rings. Remove the four sealing rings from the grooves in the pump support.
Remove the thrust washer and any shims under it. A Torrington bearing is used on later units as shown. Most early units use a tanged thrust bearing here. During removal, take note of any shims under the bearing or the thrust washer. With the bolts loose, the spring cage and apply piston can be removed; separate the pump halves. Lift the intermediate apply piston out of the oil pump housing. Note that both the inner and outer lip seals face down toward the pump.
Clean all of the pump parts and place them on a clean surface. Use a sharp tapered punch to remove the front seal. Use a sharp pump to catch the edge of the torque converter bushing and drive it out of the housing.
ENGINE BUILDING GUIDES.Chevy 350 rebuild manual download
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Our inventory of DIY engine rebuild manuals cover a wide variety of jobs, from swapping GM LS-Series engines into all different types of vehicles to upgrading to high-performance cylinder heads for increased power and torque. Install the center support and retaining spring next. Note the location of the retaining spring in the case. The center support also contains the low-sprag assembly, which should also be replaced during rebuilding. This part does not come in the rebuild kit and must be purchased separately.
Install the center support retaining spring as shown. Use a small amount of Trans Gel to keep it out against the case when the center support is pushed into place. I nstall the center support and push it fully into place as shown. Notice how the retaining spring also loads the center support against the case lugs, and how much clearance is present. Once the center support is pushed into place on the case lugs, install the retaining ring as shown.
On the left is the aftermarket bolt-in center support and stronger roller clutch assembly as used on the and later 4L60 and 4L60E transmissions. This is a highly recommended upgrade for any TH transmission; it increases the strength of the unit considerably in that area.
The stock TH center support is shown stacked on top of an aftermarket bolt-in center support. Note how much longer the rollers are on the aftermarket part. Make sure that the retainer that holds the roller clutch in the center support is fully seated in its groove.
Install the new center support and retaining ring in the same manner that you would install a stock center support. Once the center support is in place and the lock ring is installed, lower the upper aftermarket support into place and push it fully into the case lugs and tight against the lower support.
Install all eight hardened screws. Be sure to use some red Loctite on them. Install the inner race for the low-roller clutch. Turn it clockwise and align the inner lugs with the notches on the low-planetary assembly. It pushes into place easily once lined up correctly. Locate the new thrust washer for the sun shell.
The stock thrust washer was probably plastic; the replacement should be metal. Install the sun shell thrust washer onto the inner roller clutch race. Use a sharp punch to drive out the upper bushing inside the sun gear. Flip the sun shell over and drive out the lower bushing. Rest the gear on a block of wood or shop towel to help you avoid damaging it. Locate and drive in the upper bushing with a suitable driver. Make sure to use some red Loctite on the bushing.
Install the lower bushing next. Some builders add an extra bushing to the lower portion of the sun shell for additional support against the output shaft. If you choose to do this, make sure to check the oil lubrication holes; drill them if necessary. Lubricate the sun shell with clean ATF. Get plenty of lubricant on the inner bushings and on the lower area that comes in contact with the thrust washer.
Install the sun shell and gear into the case. Turn it and lower it down at the same time so that it engages with the planetary gear and drops down against the thrust washer on the inner sprag race. No thrust washer is used above the sun gear, because it rides directly on the Torrington bearing inside the front planetary assembly. Submerge the front planetary assembly in fresh ATF.
Inspect the pinions for damage and endplay, as you did with the low-planetary assembly. Install the planetary assembly onto the sun gear. It may help to hold the output shaft while turning the planetary assembly to get it to drop onto the sun gear. Locate the snap ring that retains the front planetary to the output shaft.
Set it on the end of the output shaft. Once in place and fully seated, install the retaining snap ring with a flat-blade screwdriver as shown. It helps to push one side down and then walk it around the end of the shaft while pushing it down into the retaining groove.
Clean the front planetary Torrington bearing with clean ATF. Turn it and feel for rough spots, which are tight when it turns. This indicates that it has debris inside or is damaged. Damaged or dirty Torrington bearings are not serviceable and must be replaced. Install the Torrington bearing on the front planetary.
Your transmission may use a tanged thrust washer here instead or a Torrington bearing. Note that there are two types of carriers. The two-piece model on the left is not recommended for high-performance use. Use a sharp punch to remove the bushing inside the front planetary carrier. Apply a small amount of red Loctite to the new bushing and drive it into place. Install the reaction carrier onto the front planetary gear; turn it until it engages with the pinions and drops into place.
Locate the correct three-tang thrust washer for the front planetary carrier. Put some Trans Gel on the backside of the thrust washer and install it on the carrier. The grease helps it stay in place when you install the forward clutch assembly.
Rebuilding the forward clutch is a relatively easy process. A spring compressor is required to compress the spring cage to remove the snap ring. Because the input shaft is attached to the forward drum, it should be left in place during the rebuilding process. This requires that the spring compressor must have the ability to accommodate the input shaft and still compress the spring cage.
You are now ready to rebuild and install the forward clutch assembly. The input shaft is attached to the drum. Note the small shaft on the underside of the forward clutch. It engages with the bushing in the front of the output shaft. Replace the entire assembly if it is badly worn or damaged. Remove the large snap ring as well as the frictions and steels. Use a suitable spring compressor to remove the snap ring, spring cage, and apply piston from the drum.
Clean all of the components and lay them out on a clean pan or shop towels. Locate and install the new lip seals for the forward apply piston.
The lips on both seals go down toward the drum. Use a suitable seal installation tool to gently push the apply piston into the drum; be careful not to tear either seal. The drum should turn freely once in place. Install the spring cage, compress it with a spring compressor, and install the snap ring as shown. The ends of the snap ring should be located between two of the raised areas on the retainer. Install the forward clutch pack steels and frictions.
Note that you start out with a waved apply steel. Install the snap ring and push it out tightly into the groove. Soak the frictions in ATF for at least 15 minutes prior to installation. Check for clutch pack clearance. Because the forward clutch is applied for all forward gears, it only needs some clearance to work correctly. The frictions inside the drum should turn freely once the snap ring is in place.
Factory clearance is. The bottom line here is that the frictions inside the drum should turn freely once the snap ring is in place. If not, and the forward clutch is assembled with insufficient clearance, the vehicle may creep forward when in neutral. Install the forward drum in the case.
Save this step for later if you are going to air pressure—test both clutch drums through the oil pump as shown in Step 6 on page Install the Torrington bearing after testing it for smoothness and submerging it in clean ATF. Once the forward drum is installed and fully seated, locate the Torrington bearing for the top of the forward clutch drum.
Clean, inspect, and submerge it in clean ATF prior to installation. Install the Torrington bearing on the forward clutch drum as shown. You are now ready for the direct drum. The direct drum is located behind the oil pump assembly. The intermediate roller clutch, or sprag assembly is attached to the front of the drum, and engaged with the intermediate friction plates in the forward part of the case. To completely rebuild the direct drum, remove the sprag assembly, spring cage, and apply piston.
Clean and inspect all components, and install new parts where applicable. Remove the large snap ring above the backing plate on the direct drum. Remove the backing plate, frictions, and steel plates. Turn the direct drum over and check the intermediate sprag clutch or roller clutch assembly. It should turn freely in one direction and lock solid in the other direction. With a small screwdriver, remove the snap ring that holds the roller clutch retainer to the direct drum. With the snap ring out of the way, the retaining plate lifts right off, exposing the roller clutch assembly.
Remove the roller clutch outer race. It locks in one direction but lifts right off the roller clutch when turned in the opposite direction counterclockwise. Remove the roller clutch from the drum. Inspect the inner and outer race, rollers, and springs for damage.
Install a new roller clutch assembly with any level of rebuild; the springs tend to crack, break, and lose their tension in high-mileage units. Using a suitable spring compressor, compress the spring cage for the direct clutch apply piston. Using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring. It lifts off the drum easily once it is past the snap ring groove and the tension is removed. In most cases, the apply piston lifts out of the drum easily. Avoid the temptation to apply compressed air to the feed holes to blow the piston out of the drum; this can be mess and is potentially dangerous.
Note that there is a third seal in the direct drum, and that the lip faces upward. Install the new seal with the lip in the same direction. Clean all of the components of the direct drum. Inspect the inner and outer race surfaces closely.
Most THs use four friction plates and four flat-steel plates. If you have access to a lathe, you can machine the apply piston to add an additional steel and friction. Inspect the bushing for wear. Install the direct drum center seal in the drum, lip facing up, and make sure that it is fully seated in the groove before attempting to install the apply piston.
Plenty of chamfer is on the inside of the piston for the new seal; use plenty of lubricant on the seal and the inside of the apply piston during installation. Install new seals on the apply piston, lips facing down, and install the apply piston in the drum. Also use a feeler gauge or special seal installation tool a smooth piece of wire crimped in a piece of copper or soft steel tubing.
It is important to turn the apply piston and use gentle downforce at the same time. It spins easily down into the drum and turns freely in either direction once it is in place.
Be careful not to cut, tear, or fold over the lip seals. Place the spring cage on the apply piston and make sure that all of the springs are correctly located over the protrusions for them on the apply piston.
Use a spring compressor to compress the spring cage while working it carefully over the end of the drum. Install the snap ring to retain the spring cage, and make sure that the opening in the snap ring does not line up with the raised areas of the cage. Remove the spring compressor. Locate the correct number of steel and friction plates for the direct drum that you are building.
Install the backing plate over the last friction. Make sure that it is fully seated against the last friction. Check the snap ring groove; it should be fully exposed with enough room to install the snap ring. Install the snap ring for the backing plate. Check the clutch pack clearance.
It should be. Minimum clearance is. More than. Note that I am installing a wider bushing into the direct drum. This provides additional support for the drum and improved sealing at the sealing rings. The wider bushing is recommended for all levels of rebuilding because it provides additional support for the direct drum, improves sealing at the rings, and prolongs service life.
Drive the bushing out as shown with a long tapered punch. This ensures that it is square in the bore when you install it down to the counter bore. Install the new bushing to the depth as shown in the pictures. Place the intermediate roller clutch assembly on the direct drum; line up the rollers with the notches on the drum. Carefully push the roller clutch assembly onto the drum. You may have to push each roller in slightly to get it started.
Be careful not to dislodge any of the rollers during this process. Install the intermediate clutch outer race. Turn the outer race counterclockwise while applying downward pressure at the same time. It easily rolls into position and seats against the drum. Install the roller clutch retainer. Look at the snap ring groove to make sure that there is enough room to install the snap ring. If not, the roller clutch or outer race is not fully seated. Install the snap ring over the retainer.
The snap ring ends should be between the notches in the drum as shown. Be sure that the snap ring is fully seated. Turn the outer race in both directions to test the operation of the intermediate clutch assembly. It should turn freely counterclockwise, then lock solid when turned clockwise. Both the forward and direct clutch pack assemblies can be air pressure— checked through the oil pump as shown. Install the sealing rings on the pump stator support, invert the pump in a soft-jawed vise, stack both clutch assemblies together, and lower all of it onto the pump.
Apply compressed air through the oil supply passages and listen for the clutch apply as well as air leaks. Carefully lower the direct clutch assembly into the case. Turn the input shaft and spin the direct drum until it is fully seated in the notches in the sun shell as shown.
Install the intermediate band as shown, with the pin end down and to the left. Slip the band over the direct drum and align it with the notch in the case. Be sure that the band is fully engaged in the notch as shown. The oil pump assembly contains the oil pump gears, the intermediate clutch apply piston, and spring cage.
The hub end also has the sealing rings for the direct and forward clutch assemblies. Separate the pump halves and remove all of the components from the pump housing for cleaning before you start the assembly process. Unhook the ends on all four sealing rings.
Remove the four sealing rings from the grooves in the pump support. Remove the thrust washer and any shims under it. A Torrington bearing is used on later units as shown. Most early units use a tanged thrust bearing here. During removal, take note of any shims under the bearing or the thrust washer. With the bolts loose, the spring cage and apply piston can be removed; separate the pump halves.
Lift the intermediate apply piston out of the oil pump housing. Note that both the inner and outer lip seals face down toward the pump. Clean all of the pump parts and place them on a clean surface. Use a sharp tapered punch to remove the front seal. Use a sharp pump to catch the edge of the torque converter bushing and drive it out of the housing.
Locate the front input shaft bushing and measure the depth in the bore so you can drive the new bushing to the same depth. Repeat this procedure for the two lower bushings. Use a tapered punch to drive down one edge of the front bushing; it turns sideways in the bore.
Repeat this procedure for both lower bushings. Remove the two lower bushings in the same manner as the front bushing. The lower bushings turn sideways in the bore. Pry them out as shown. Drive two new bushings into the lower end of the stator. Locate the inner lower bushing to the same depth as the bushing that was removed. It should be just below the oil supply hole, not blocking it. Drive in a new front bushing.
Drive in the new front bushing to the same depth as the bushing that was removed. If you do not have a spare shaft, you can use the forward clutch assembly for this purpose. Always install a new torque converter bushing for any level of rebuild. Doing so ensures correct alignment of the torque converter drive hub in the oil pump inner gear, which reduces side loading and improves front seal life. Drive in a new torque converter bushing. Drive in a new front seal. Note that a spring is inside the seal lip.
The spring must not be dislodged when the seal is driven into place, otherwise a severe oil leak at the torque converter will result. Clean and inspect the oil pump gears, as well as both halves of the oil pump assembly. Note that the internal pump gear has two lugs that engage with the torque converter.
These lugs must be installed toward the rear of the transmission, or farthest away from the torque converter hub. Failure to do so results in pump breakage and transmission failure. Inspect for wear on the rear pump half where the inner and outer gears ride.
Minor scratches are okay, but deep grooves here are not acceptable. Lubricate the oil pump and gears prior to assembly. Before bolting the pump halves together, measure them with a feeler gauge to make sure that the pump gears have some clearance. This should not be a problem unless a service replacement set of gears are used, or gears were taken from another oil pump. Place two new seals on the intermediate apply piston, lips facing down.
Use a lip seal tool to install the apply piston into the housing; make sure it is fully seated and turns freely. Install the spring cage over the apply piston. Install the oil pump band and tighten with a large flat-blade screwdriver.
Chevy 350 rebuild manual download
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